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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.